The vibe of Vancouver is hard to reconcile, and certainly describe, after just a few days there. It is rare to see such a city of contrast, with its stunning harbourfront vistas just metres away from absolute destitution. The proliferation of homeless folks - the real McCoy - is pervasive and saddening. Especially when they are side by side with dudes in suits. And youths in full snow gear, with a snowboard under their arm.A cycle or stroll around Stanley Park is a must, especially on a bitterly cold, but brightly sunny day. It's odd wearing sunnies and big thick beanie. Just make sure you follow the one-way system (anti-clockwise) or the dads and daughter cycle teams will make you know about it. English Bay, by the way, is quite English with it's grubby sand, fish & chip shop and choppy grey sea.
East Vancouver, a grittier pre-yuppie Stoke Newington, seemed a spiritual home. Magic delis, organic veg markets, coffee shops, art-house cinemas, Melbourne style bars, live music and Asian cheap eateries are the order of the day. A perfect place to while away a few days in the cold. And just a stone's throw from downtown.
It's worth exploring Canadian ale beyond the world of Labbatts and Molson. Although the brand names elude me - funny that - they are darkish, broody, genuinely bitter and not too gassy. Reminiscent of boutique Kiwi beers, which raises the question: is Canada to the USA what New Zealand is to Australia? Dunno about that one.
There is something about the honest advertising copy in Canada that both charms and annoys. Is it old fashioned or an emerging reaction to the blandness of 'the man'. Simply things like 'we only sell things we'd buy ourselves or sell to our family'. Interesting.
Was it like Redcar?
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