Ensenada (Mexico) - welcome to Latin America

Getting into Mexico from the USA was the easiest entry into a country I've even known. Take a tram from downtown San Diego, right to the border (for $2) and then, erm, just walk in. Passport checks, immigration, customs? Nope.

Then a simple bus ride to Ensenada, a pretty port town about 2 hours away. By the way, the flag on the photo might look photoshopped, but it's not. It's bloody massive and so makes navigating pretty easy.

On the first night, after an afternoon wandering (with Darrell), a game of Pictionary was held in the suburbs. A really fun way to bond with some locals, over tequila of course. Amazingly, despite this being played in Spanish, my team won. After that, we played a weird game called werewolf which really needs to be tried to be understood. I'm taking this one back home though, it's hilarious. Interestingly, whilst the Mexicans were hugely friendly and hospitable, they weren't in any way overwhelmed by having two gringos in their company. I didn't feel special at all - in a good way - just one of the gang.

The following day, we hired motorbikes and went to the Bufadora out of town. Great ride there, although the blowhole (like many around the world) didn't feel like blowing that day. In the evening, I cooked rissotto for nine, as you do, before heading to see a couple of bands. The first was a classic mariachi act in a scruffy saloon, followed by a cover band in a so-called indie club. Bad dancing and tequila, they go well together.

San Diego (USA) - a happening city

Supporting a theory that the best places in California start with 'San', the city of San Diego proved a good home for a few days. At least it's just about possible to get around by public transport.

A base in Mission Beach provided the chance to watch the sun set over the water, a treat missed by East coast dwellers, as well as have a few runs on the sand and ride an old-school roller coaster. Although it's intrinsically touristy, like Bondi I guess, there was a good vibe in this laid back Californian beach suburb.

The highlight of trip, unexpectedly, was a 3 or 4 hour exploration of the US Midway - a full service aircraft carrier only decommissioned in 1992. Truly fascinating, especially the sleeping quarters and bridge, but a frightening example of the money and effort that goes into war. Still, not a comment to make in SD where a massive proportion of the people are linked to the military.

Another supposed highlight was a trip to Bilbao Park, but the place incensed me. A green space with a six lane freeway running through it, and countless other big roads, is not a park. Full stop. Still, I did have a good meal there and happy hour margeritas.

Someone once said that a lively, strong gay community is a good indicator of a happening city. With that in mind, a trip to Hillcrest complete with a drag show, made for good night. On the opposite end of the scale, testosterone of another type, an evening in the nightlife capital of Gaslamp Quarter ended with riding a mechanical bull. Naturally I was useless, although the amount of time you got to ride seemed to depend on gender and amount of clothing worn. Fun, fun, fun.

Future thought to end... how little I know about the history and current situation of Australia's aborigines, as illustrated when asked on the road.

Orange County (USA) - not much beyond the beaches

Only a visit to an old friend brought me to this most famous of counties, not the allure of glamour promised by TV. Indeed, it took a while to find this glamour, as it lives only in narrow beach strips and behind the walls of gated communities. Scary stuff and I don't mean the people on the outside of the wire fences, who seemed fine to me. Otherwise, the power of car culture, and hence freeways, dominates everything. Public transport is a foreign word with a big thanks to the gas and auto lobbyists. Great work fellas.

Nevertheless, it was a pleasure to see my pal - after a gap of years in double figures - and hang out with his missus and little ones. Trips to BMX parks are not part of my usual routine and that's what travel is all about. Even less part of my routine is visiting off-road enthusiast fairs. Still unsure how these guys can keep going in the face of global warming and economic doom, even with the gratuitous use of porn star stand dollies. After this sojourn, I continued my cooking themed travels by knocking up spicy lamb chops and oven roasted veggies - served with an excellent Oregon Pinot Noir. Further evidence it's the Victoria of the Pacific Northwest.

Our attempt to capture the more debauched days of our university life took us to the beaches. A fifty minute drive was required to get us to the nearest bar: Sharkies Bar in Newport Beach. A fun night was just getting going here - beers, dancing, girls, the usual stuff - when everything ground to a halt at the alarmingly early 1am. Pretty standard by all accounts and so off to the ham & cheese croissant stall we went. An odd doner kebab substitute, but it did the job. At the more up-market Laguna Beach late afternoon hangovers were still present and so a spicy Bloody Mary, drunk as the sun set over the water, was just the order of the day.

Santa Cruz (USA) - sleep, serenity and sealions

A journey from the Northwest to Southern California required at least one break - and Santa Cruz served this purpose well.

The Amtrak journey to this seaside town, via San Jose, was a pleasure, including a long sleep in the spacious chairs. On board there was an observation lounge and even a games arcade. Definitel the way to travel, especially with the views offered by Southern Oregon.

Once in Santa Cruz, I was pretty soon greeted by 20 to 30 locals. A gang of huge sealions lying around and warming their flippers in the winter sun, only metres from the end of the pier. An absolute treat and certainly something I've never seen before. Coupled with a visit to the Henry Cowell state park, and a big hike through the redwoods, this stopover was a refreshing natural sojourn.

Otherwise, Santa Cruz was a sleepy Californian town - with a nice vibe, but not much happening. The famous boardwalk funfair certainly looked a bit depressing at this time of the year. For evening entertainment, after a rare visit to a great vego restaurant, I visited a free comedy night. Just how poor this was, is hard to describe. Perhaps an example joke does it best. Why waste all this time on formulas to enlarge the size of men's bits.... can't they do something about shrinking women's?

The hostel in this town is the polar opposite of the fun packed Portland offering, with an 11pm curfew and a total alcohol ban. B-o-r-i-n-g. Though sometimes you need someone else to enforce an alcohol free day or two.

Portland (USA) - grim yet great

A city famous for very little, and with no tourist landmarks, seems an odd place to spend four days. Yet, fond memories have been left by this Oregon treasure. Like its Northwest counterpart, Seattle, it certainly does cool bookshops, real ales, funky clothes shops and live music way better than most cities. Though again, the volume of the homeless was scary.

Having been there only one hour, a random stroll past an art-house cinema revealed that Steven Soderbergh's film 'Che' was showing that night - with the director himself in attendance. A must see, so I bought one of the last tickets and headed back at 7pm. Little did I know that it would be 1am before my cinematic experience ended. Grueling and fascinating, both the film and q&a session. The former purely due to length and the latter thanks to the film student wankers, with their technical questions. Aspect ratio and post production, please?

Three nights of drinking then followed, coupled with attempts to get to the Mount Hood snow area - all of which failed. Highlights included: being pulled over by the cops, pints of Guiness on St. Paddy's night, lesbian anarchic punk rock, drunken boardgames, free stuff courtesy of JD and a flame-juggler stripper night. Seriously. Strippereoke was only missed by one night.

In the midst of all this mayhem, I did cook a feast of Hungarian Goulash for the gang, earning the title: hostel chef. Intellectual rigour was provided by a visit to Powell's city of books. It claims to be the biggest in the world and, whilst I'm not sure about that, it's certainly gigantic and has character which puts Borders et al to shame. Natural stimulation came from a muddy hike around the massive Washington Park. If only I hadn't taken along an annoying yank (most aren't, by the way) who refused to eat off the hostel crockery, as he feared picking up a foreign disease. Ridiculous.

Seattle (USA) - much more than just Frasier

This city is loaded with cultural and corporate references. And wandering around somehow gives you a sense of the creative and intellectual power of the place. But, it's the natural setting that overwhelms once you are there. Surrounded by waterways and collosal snow capped mountains, you seem only minutes away from the wilderness. A walk along the waterfront on a glorious sunny winter day, with tunes pumping through the ipod, brings a big smile the face.

Art institutions abound and with just one day, the Seattle Art Musuem and Sculpture Park are the order of the day. In the latter, beware trying the old dad gag (ie. pointing to a bench or fire extinguisher and commenting on it's artistic merit) as it might backfire. Pike Market is also a good way of getting lost for a few hours. Although, the fantastic oyster bar might remind you that entering the backpacker mindset takes some time. Yumminess. On that subject, another in the series of budget travel tips, why pay for an internet cafe when libraries are free? And why pay $25 to visit the top of the Space Needle, when the taller Columbia Centre is free? Well, if you're sneaky.

On a completely different note, it was in Seattle that I heard about the technique of 'sous vide' style cooking - which basically seems to mean posh boil-in-the-bag - as exemplified by Thomas Keller at French Laundry. Just a reminder note to investigate this another time.

Victoria (Canada) - more British than Britain

Here is a city awash with shops, squares and streets featuring London, England and Royal in their name. Union Jacks are pretty prevalent too. Yet it's the capital of a state in Canada. Weird.

With not a huge amount else to do, except the tourist heights of Miniature World, a trip the Royal (thanks maam) BC Museum is a must - especially when it's freezing. Here you can learn all about aboriginal abuse and raping resources from early settlers. Good to hear the Brits are nothing if not consistent. Whilst various athletes, politicians and business people are celebrated, they seem less keen on mentioning Pamela Andersen nor Michael J Fox.

The city's massive Chinese population (it was the first jumping off point for migrant, union breaking, miners) has created a cool little Chinatown. And it brought about the discovery of eggs, chips and soy sauce as a winning breakfast. Coupled with a tea, made from a Cuppa Joes big napkin teabag, it's a top start to the day.

Vancouver (Canada) - curious mix of scruffy and serene

The vibe of Vancouver is hard to reconcile, and certainly describe, after just a few days there. It is rare to see such a city of contrast, with its stunning harbourfront vistas just metres away from absolute destitution. The proliferation of homeless folks - the real McCoy - is pervasive and saddening. Especially when they are side by side with dudes in suits. And youths in full snow gear, with a snowboard under their arm.

A cycle or stroll around Stanley Park is a must, especially on a bitterly cold, but brightly sunny day. It's odd wearing sunnies and big thick beanie. Just make sure you follow the one-way system (anti-clockwise) or the dads and daughter cycle teams will make you know about it. English Bay, by the way, is quite English with it's grubby sand, fish & chip shop and choppy grey sea.

East Vancouver, a grittier pre-yuppie Stoke Newington, seemed a spiritual home. Magic delis, organic veg markets, coffee shops, art-house cinemas, Melbourne style bars, live music and Asian cheap eateries are the order of the day. A perfect place to while away a few days in the cold. And just a stone's throw from downtown.

It's worth exploring Canadian ale beyond the world of Labbatts and Molson. Although the brand names elude me - funny that - they are darkish, broody, genuinely bitter and not too gassy. Reminiscent of boutique Kiwi beers, which raises the question: is Canada to the USA what New Zealand is to Australia? Dunno about that one.

There is something about the honest advertising copy in Canada that both charms and annoys. Is it old fashioned or an emerging reaction to the blandness of 'the man'. Simply things like 'we only sell things we'd buy ourselves or sell to our family'. Interesting.

Whistler (Canada) - the king of the snow

The first thing to say about Whistler, is that it's bloody enormous. Especially for someone who has only boarded in the Antipodes. The lifts are fast (and comfy), but take 20 mins to get up high - and not even to the peak. Every trail seems different: bowls of powder, cliffs of ice, gladed runs through snow-covered trees and perfect downhills. Even the trail map is like the London A-Z. It truly is 'awesome' - a word you'll become just a little tired of hearing.

It's funny how when traveling alone, there is always a night every so often when you just don't meet anyone. It can feel a bit lonely. But you can bet your life on the fact that, the very following day, you'll meet a great crew and forget those pangs that hit you previously. Especially if you bond over jenga - be still those shaking hands.

A budget journeyman tip. Or one for those who just forget to buy food one night. Hostels free food fridges are a rich source of a meal for the inventive. Chicken noodle soup for example... from almost nothing.

Canada's sales tax system is maddening. Why not include it in the price, like every other goddamn country in the world? Still, there are bargains to be had. Fresh fish is dam cheap, beer isn't too bad and they are practically giving away film tickets.

Crazy future thought to end... where could I live, like Vancouver, that is 30 mins from the snow?