Bogota (Colombia) - back for Xmas

In Colombia, the big Xmas event happens on Christmas Eve, where families get together to eat, drink and dance. I was lucky to spend the night with my friend's folks, all crammed into a small room in grandma's house. I was less lucky, or perhaps just stupid, to spend the night drinking a scary mix of beer, wine, rum, whisky and, of course, aguardiente. Before passing out, literally, I did show off my salsa skills, dancing with just about every female attendee, from a 2 year old to grannie herself. Who strangely was dressed as a man. Odd.

On my last day in Bogota, I did manage to tick off one attraction that had eluded me in my previous 3 months: the Biblioteca Luis Ángel Arango, a huge complex of libraries, theatres, museums and other cultural institutions and I do not know how I missed it first time around. Yet more fantastic works from Botero himself, along with a smattering of minor works from European masters, displays on the history of money in Colombia and a collection of Latin American contemperory works, make for a good few hours of wandering. More amazingly my Colombian girl had not even heard of it, after living in Bogota for 25 years.

Pereira (Colombia) - coffee zone

Nestled in the centre of Colombia is the zona cafetera, a rich landscape of rolling hills, green pastures and, of course, coffee plantations. I spent a couple of nights in Pereira, a city in the centre of this region, although it offered little more than another parque central and more riverside lights. That said, the streets themselves were entertainment. Being one day before Xmas, they were full of people, vendors, musicians, lights and frantic last minute present buyers, of which I was one.

As in Medellin, I found the people here remarkably friendly. The owner of the hotel where I was staying took me on an afternoon trip to his farm in the countryside, where we drank coffee, met the locals and enjoyed the view. On the way, we stopped off at his mum's house for a seasonal lunch with his family of 20 or more. After just two nights, it was time to take another long bus ride to Bogota for my own family Xmas.

Medellin (Colombia) - city of eternal spring

Famed during the 90's for drug trafficking (it was the centre of action for Pablo Escobar's crew), the kidnapping of foreigners and violent clashes between rebels and paramilitaries, I can't think of a global city less fitting its reputation. Then again, I have never visited Tehran which is supposed to be beautiful.

Medellin has a perfect climate (always around 27 degrees and sunny), is nestled in a beautiful green valley and is a bustling, cosmopolitan city with cultural institutions everywhere. It is served by an excellent metro and is surrounded by quaint villages and exquisite countryside. Yet, most people would think you are mad coming here for a holiday.

On the only day I have really explored extensively, I took a cable car ride up the side of the valley. The ride is part of the metro system - so only costs 70c - and the view is excellent. It culminates in a 'library park' (to translate it directly) which are all around the city. This one feature an intriguing looking building housing a great modern libary in the heart of a pretty poor neighbourhood. Worthy stuff. I also found time for the art-deco styled Museo de Antioquia, which devotes a whole floor the their local hero, Fernando Botero. At first I wasn't keen on his style (basically caricatures of people made to look chubby), but after viewing them close up, in their 12 or 14 foot glory, I came away quite impressed.

The local antioquians are proud of their region and are embarassingly friendly and helpful. I have been lucky enough to live with a paisa couple for a week, meet their friends and try the local dishes. Bandeja Paisa is arguably the least healthy plate of food I have ever seen, but the perfect hangover cure. An assortment of meats (including a rib of chicharron - pork crackling - as long as my arm), fried eggs, fried platano, fried rice and refried beans. A heart-attack on one plate.

Villa de Leyva (Colombia) - step back in time

Heading to Villa de Leyva soon became a 'must do' after being told by everyone in Bogota not to miss this nearby treasure. Indeed it is a beautiful place. Almost all the buildings in the old centre are 400 years old or more and are surrounded by rolling hills. The huge main plaza is difficult to appreciate in photos and is particularly exquisite, in a mysteriously dark way, at night. It defies belief why a village of this size has such a massive central square, easily the same size as its equivalent in Bogota. I guess 500 years ago no one knew that one would become a bustling capital of 10 million people and the other would be frozen in time - to the benefit of the weekenders like me. We also managed to fit in a trip to Raquira, a tiny local artesan and craft centre. Here, perhaps foolishly, I bought a set of traditional dessert bowls, in a classically Colombian yellow. How I will get them home, I do not know.

All in all, it is only a shame I did not have longer in this tranquil part Colombia. Promises of a journey time of two hours did not materialise. More like double that, each way, in the end. Will I ever return? Well, who knows.