Huanchaco (Peru) - break in the journey

Guayacil to Lima is a long journey and, conveniently, the small surf town of Huanchaco is about two thirds along the way. Amongst other things, the town is famous for its caballito boats (little horses) used by the local fishermen, who surf back on the waves with their catch. If you're not a surfer, there is little to do apart from stroll along the beach and take a dip in the aggressive waters.
Nearby are the ancient ruins of Chan Chan, a series of palaces made by the Chimú people (who were eventually overun by the Incas and then the Spanish), now reduced to a series of labyrinths of mud walls. A few carvings of various sea creatures liven up the display and make it worthy of couple of hours. Particularly interesting are the hidden water holes in various parts of the maze. Suddenly you are confronted with a verdant oasis in a network of dry, sandy walls. Apparently, each king that died was buried with his 40 or 50 wives, his army and half his people... all willingly executed on news of his death.

Early impressions of Peru were mixed. It seems more expensive on one hand and the landscape here is dry and quite bleak (a desert type climate induced by the cold waters of the humbolt current). Then again, the food is a vast improvement on earlier countries and the buses are excellent. More time required to determine an overall view.

Galapagos Islands (Ecuador) - days 3 & 4

It was pretty hard to top the first day touring the islands and it did turn out to be more of the same. Different landscapes and different species, but still largely a diet of iguanas, sea lions and beautiful ocean. There are worse places to be sat on a sun-lounger on the deck of a luxury boat. On the final night, I actually managed to talk a few of the oldies into playing cards. For about 20 mins, before the onerous task of packing took precedence. Why do people make such a big deal about an activity that I can't seem to spend more then five minutes on?

Having built in an extra day and night for the main island (Sante Fe), I recruited a gang of four backpackers to explore the centre after disembarking the boat. The sights there are pretty interesting and a waste to do as part of boat tour. Firstly the 'gamelos' (twins) which are two giant craters in the highlands that used to be volcano cones. Secondly a llava tunnel of about 500 metres, which appears to be machine cut, but is actually where the lava escaped from the fiery centre. Finally, and most impressively, a farm of giant turtles wallowing in lush pastures and murky marshes. Excellent stuff. Though how Darwin took inspiration from these islands for a 'survial of the fittest' proposition eludes me. Here are some of the slowest, laziest animals I have ever had the pleasure of encountering.

Galapagos Islands (Ecuador) - day 2

All the concerns over the cost and the hassles getting there suddenly disappeared when I set foot on Isla Española, after sailing there through the night. Strewn over the rocks and sand, seeming waiting for us but actually totally ignoring our group, was a mountain of sea lions, huge colourful iguanas, giant pelicans and bright red crabs. I have seen all these individually before. But never in such volume, never so friendly and never all together. The landscape is also incredible. Rugged rocks, giant cacti, turquoise blue sea, crashing waves, towering cliffs and bright green shrubs. Many wildlife sites promise much and deliver little. The Galapagos Islands over delivers if anything.

On three seperate visits to the islands different corners, I snorkelled with sting rays, swam with sea lions and spent time studying the nest building habits of the famous 'blue footed boobie'. In one spot, there was a line of four nests which featured, in order, each stage of the hatching process... like a museum display in real life. Ample time was also available on my luxury boat, complete with private cabin. The only drawback being the mean age of my fellow passengers (probably over 60) which meant that dinner at 7pm was the last event of the night. Still, after carnaval, a few nights off the booze did no harm.

Galapagos Islands (Ecuador) - day 1

Arrival in the Galapagos Islands is one of lifes truly exciting experiences. I have never read Darwin's Origin of Species (which only references these islands in sporadic parts) or seen one of many documentaries, but this is still a place of legend. Stepping off the plane, you are greeted by a pelican and iguana casually loitering on the runway. It's like bumping into a kangaroo as you disembark a Qantas jet.

The Galapagos boat tour theory goes like this: the closer you are (in time and physically) to an actual boat setting off on a tour, the cheaper the price. And so in good backpacker spirit, I flew into town and headed straight to the dock. Unfortunately, this was in high season and just one day after carnaval which meant there was little on offer. Sure you can wait for two or three days and something will turn up eventually. But the port town of Puerto Ayora is not cheap and not really worthy of much more than a night. So, after 4 hours hunting for something in the heat, I took a tour a couple of classes above what I really needed. Although I spent more than I wanted, or rather got fewer days than I was aiming for, there was some comfort knowing the standard rack rate was almost 3 times what I paid.

Baños (Ecuador) - carnval & circus come to town

It is not just Brazil that celebrates carnival at this time of year. Across South America it's the time to party before lent kicks in. In Ecuador, this means taking to the streets with plentiful supplies of water balloons, canisters of foam, packets of eggs and flour. It really it total carnage and no-one is safe. Little kids rub various liquids into the eyes of innocent grannies. And vice-versa. Gringos are most certainly not left out.

For me carnaval coincided with my last few days in Baños and 'El Gran Circo de Titeres'. After five weeks of preparation, everything went pretty smoothly. We had over 100 attendees each night (as many as 200 on the first night), the show itself all worked and the concession stand was storming success. In total we made over $220 for the foundation and after each show it was time to hit the bars, which meant the Leprachaun. Obviously, the rafting guides were in full force with their accomplished gringa girl pick up techniques. Still, I managed to throw a few salsa moves into the proceedings with the latinas - to claim an own back of sorts.