The western side of Nicaragua is dominated by a huge lake, which provides a home for an enchanting island, named after the local word for 'two peaks'. Hot, wet and built on volcanic soil, Ometepe is a verdant land, with a strong farming culture and a growing tourism angle, although largely rural and untouched - except by a host of cows, horses, chickens and dogs.Getting around is difficult, to say the least. The 30 km trip from the port in the north-west, to Merida in the south, takes a laughable 3 hours due to the mud and rock road that plies the route. Making it there, though, is thoroughly worthwhile in order to stay at the hacienda, perched on the lakeside, complete with kayaks, hammacks, giant chess sets and other tools of the idler.
To be honest, my memories of this retreat focus more on England's incredible win in the Ashes - which I listened to almost in its entirety via the bbc live webcast. I did also have a few good swims, once at sunset which was amazing, and visit the 'oro de agua' to sample its mineral enriched waters. Although I didn't shed 10 years, as promised by the doorman, my skin did feel surprisingly soft after an hour floating around. Worth doing for a few bucks.
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