Famed during the 90's for drug trafficking (it was the centre of action for Pablo Escobar's crew), the kidnapping of foreigners and violent clashes between rebels and paramilitaries, I can't think of a global city less fitting its reputation. Then again, I have never visited Tehran which is supposed to be beautiful.Medellin has a perfect climate (always around 27 degrees and sunny), is nestled in a beautiful green valley and is a bustling, cosmopolitan city with cultural institutions everywhere. It is served by an excellent metro and is surrounded by quaint villages and exquisite countryside. Yet, most people would think you are mad coming here for a holiday.
On the only day I have really explored extensively, I took a cable car ride up the side of the valley. The ride is part of the metro system - so only costs 70c - and the view is excellent. It culminates in a 'library park' (to translate it directly) which are all around the city. This one feature an intriguing looking building housing a great modern libary in the heart of a pretty poor neighbourhood. Worthy stuff. I also found time for the art-deco styled Museo de Antioquia, which devotes a whole floor the their local hero, Fernando Botero. At first I wasn't keen on his style (basically caricatures of people made to look chubby), but after viewing them close up, in their 12 or 14 foot glory, I came away quite impressed.
The local antioquians are proud of their region and are embarassingly friendly and helpful. I have been lucky enough to live with a paisa couple for a week, meet their friends and try the local dishes. Bandeja Paisa is arguably the least healthy plate of food I have ever seen, but the perfect hangover cure. An assortment of meats (including a rib of chicharron - pork crackling - as long as my arm), fried eggs, fried platano, fried rice and refried beans. A heart-attack on one plate.
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