Nestled in the centre of Colombia is the zona cafetera, a rich landscape of rolling hills, green pastures and, of course, coffee plantations. I spent a couple of nights in Pereira, a city in the centre of this region, although it offered little more than another parque central and more riverside lights. That said, the streets themselves were entertainment. Being one day before Xmas, they were full of people, vendors, musicians, lights and frantic last minute present buyers, of which I was one. As in Medellin, I found the people here remarkably friendly. The owner of the hotel where I was staying took me on an afternoon trip to his farm in the countryside, where we drank coffee, met the locals and enjoyed the view. On the way, we stopped off at his mum's house for a seasonal lunch with his family of 20 or more. After just two nights, it was time to take another long bus ride to Bogota for my own family Xmas.
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