Copan Ruinas (Honduras) - lazy times

Finally, after setting out in February to take on Central America, I have made it to my second country in the region - albeit only 10 minutes from the Guatemalan border. A very simple stroll between two gates took care of immigration. Though at least they looked at my passport, unlike the Mexicans.

Copan is one of those delightful colonial towns, with cobbled streets, set in the hills at a pleasant altitude. It is pretty touristy, but charming never-the-less. We were lucky enough to stay in cracking hostel, in a room with luxury treats rare in the low end of the market. Piping hot water, a ceiling fan and, wait for it, a reading lamp. Days were spent lounging around, learning if not really practicing Spanish. In the evenings we drank a few bottles of Imperial (the local beer with actual taste) and wandered the streets. Honduras certainly has a different feel to Guatemala, although I need to get into a real town to pick what it is.

I almost forgot the reason everyone ostensibly visits this town. The Mayan ruins. Old and resplendent in the jungle, as always. And of course I went to see them. To be honest though, the incredible macaws, that circle the crumbling temples and ancient stairways, interested me more.

Tikal (Guatemala) - mayan marvel

Deep in the jungle of Northern Guatemala lies the definitive Mayan site of Tikal. Dozens of temples, many of which you can actually climb, are nestled amongst the canopies and amongst the very appropriately named howler monkeys. I certainly enjoyed wandering around the massive site and appreciating this engineering feat. But, it was a hell of a hike to get there from Semuc Champey and, in truth, it didn't overwhelm me. Perhaps I am a little travel weary when even a world class experience is struggling to move my world.

Nearby Florest, the base camp for Tikal expeditions, is a quaint little island town on the banks of a lake. Restaurants along the water provide nice views and the cobbled streets add to the ambience. That said, it was with no regret that I hit the road again, for another mammoth bus ride. At least I always had Nuestro Diario under my arm. A local tabloid divided into three thirds: horrific tales of murder, road accidents and muggings (complete with photos of the dead bodies lying in the road and their families standing around grieving), photos of catwalk models and beauty pagent winners from around the world and sport (entirely football, of course). Plus horoscopes and agony aunts. All-in-all, a terrific read.

Semuc Champey (Guatemala) - unbelievable

The journey to Semuc Champey is not easy. A bus ride from Antigua, via the capital, takes you to Coban. Here an overnight stay is pretty much necessary, with little to do except gaze at a very odd piece of 60's style run-down public art. From there, a 3 hour mini-bus ride takes you to Lanquin. And from there, it's a crazy 40 min pick up ride to the oasis. But once you make it... wow! Arguably the most idyllic places to take a dip in the world. In the freshest, clearest water - surrounded by jungle and waterfalls. Absolutely top class.

Right next door you can partake in one of the oddest experiences the world has to offer, in the Grutas de Lanquin. This comprised a fairly hardcore 2 hour caving experience, involving squeezing, swimming, climbing and jumping, two kilometres underground in serious bat land, undertaken with nothing more than a cheap candle for light and in board-shorts or a bikini (I chose the former). Ridiculous and all the more sensational because of it.

Both activities are bundled in a one-day package from the fantastic El Retiro lodge near Lanqin - described by one Aussie guest as a backpacker resort (with big communal buffets, little mix with the outside world, wooden cabins and a riverside setting, the description is fitting). Rather than pay a 125Q for the convenience of the tour, we decided to DIY. Saving a massive 15Q seemed pretty smart early in the day. But that was before missing the last pick-up and being forced to walk all the way home along an unimaginably hilly dirt road, in the dark and a tropical downpour. In thongs and those chaffing boardies. Not the best three hours of my trip.

Antigua (Guatemala) - post farewell wind-down

The manificent colonial town of Antigua is the tourist honey-pot of Guatemala, complete with cobbled streets, magnificent architecture and artisan markets. I spent two nights there but, to be honest, did very little. Hoards of gringos of all ages - high school kids and pensioners included - cram the streets, bars and shops. It wasn't my cup of tea and left me with no regrets in selecting Xela as my place of study. Perhaps the highlight was a visit to the supermarket, afterwhich I cooked the very Latin American dish of sausage, mash, peas and ketchup. Still, it was washed down with Chilean wine.

Prior to setting off on the road again, with the delightful Heidi, the week was about farewells. The goodbyes started on my last day at school; with a lunch, a speech and a few little presents for my teachers. Then I had to leave my family - although I am practised at that - with a last meal and a couple more gifts. Finally, the adios for amigos, held in our favourite curry house. Boy it was good. Oh, in between we climbed Volcan Santa Maria, in the middle of the night. Hard work, but it delivered the 'above the clouds, sunrise view' to make it all worthwhile. Time to hit the road.

Quetzaltenango (Guatemala) - university

It is amusing how I have raced through locations much more picturesque, and with more obvious attractions, than Xela. Why this cold and wet city has justified six weeks is a mystery, but perhaps the clue comes from the guidebook that likened it to a town in Northern England.

Studying at El Portal has been great and, although I am not as fluent as would have been nice, I have everything I need to get around the region and more. Big thanks to Gloria, Mariela and even Josue for the rude words.

The scene here is pretty small, but has everything you need. Budda Bar and El Cuartito for live music. La Rumba and La Paranda for salsa dancing. Salon Tecun and Oala for a beer. Pool y Beers and Blue Angel for movies. El Sabor de India and Cafe Paris to escape from the local cuisine. Not to mention a 1980's style gym, ridiculous museum featuring a goat with two heads, nasty American style shopping mall and a million internet cafes. Plenty to keep you occupied before and after homework time.

Quetzaltenango (Guatemala) - high school

Another week in Xela, another 100 verbs and a couple of tenses. Is it still travelling, yet alone a holiday, when you are in one place for months on end?

The big highlight of the week, one for which I turned down a world-class hiking opportunity, was the last match of the season for the SuperChivos (super, erm, goats). With a handful of students and three family members, we braved 'la curva' - the home of the hardest, loudest and craziest loyal supporters. I have never been in crowd like it. A ten piece band, non-stop dancing, a suite of songs with familar tunes and obnoxious, indecipherable words and use of the word 'puta' pretty much every second. Hilarious and with a win for the home team against the arch-rivals from the capital, it was 40 quetzals ($7) well spent.

Those songs in full...!

Vamos Xela, hoy te venido a vez
Pongan huevos, no logro entender
Que te amo, con todo el corazon
Y que juntos, vamas a salie campeon
(the classic)

Mira, mira, tomale la foto
Se va para su casa con el culo roto
(for the end of a game)

Hueeeeeeeeeeeeeco
El hijo de la gran puta
Puta puta puta
Reputa la vieja cerota
(sung as the goalie take a kick)

Para ser superchivo
Para ser superchivo se necesita un chingo de locura
Un chingo de locura y descontrol y del descontrol
Vamos Xela
Vamos Xel
(to the tune of La Bamba)

Venados y chantes, la misma mierda
(especially for Suchi)

Lago Atitlan (Guatemala) - summer break

Perhaps it is a little rude to take a long weekend as part of a holiday spanning several months, but I needed a break. So, off to Lago Atitlan a beautiful lakeside region, for some recuperation.

The main base for this excursion was San Pedro de la Laguna, a hippy style traveller centre with little to make it different from peers anywhere across the world: internet cafes, hash brownies, dreadlocks, ethnic jewellery stalls, massages, Bob Frickin Marley and video nights in every restaurant. That said, I did appreciate eating a mix of Asian and Italian food after three weeks of Guatemalan fair.

Days were spent taking a launch to other spots around the lake. As much for the ride as anything in the destinations. San Marcos gave new meaning to the phrase "nothing to do". Unless you fancied a week long course in karmic alignment or such like. Panajachel was basically San Pedro with a couple of extra years development and, consequently, for a fractionally richer crew. On one journey, a couple of guys last seen in the Baja California were sighted. A standard travelling incident, but always amusing. I did manage a couple of swims too and, despite being hard to actually access, the water was perfect. Who designs a lakeside holiday destination with almost zero water views or access? I guess no-one is the answer.

Evenings were occupied eating, playing cards and ping poing, dancing, watching films and listening to live music. Including a human beatbox that actually had people dancing to him. Odd. Pals from Xela were there for a few nights and that made for a few fun trips out.